Gal Is Sitting Down

[Galaxy_Quest]

Hi all,

 

Did some work on the Gal for recent MOT... changed brakes and bled brake fluid at same time. At first there were some brake "pressure" issues but this has resolved itself :(

 

The garage then changed the front Macpherson Strut insulation rubber mounts (eventually) in the engine housing. Gal passed MOT :D

 

But now.... driving about today collecting some DIY stuffs with rear seats removed (u know the thing, done it a thousand times!) and the Gal is sitting down low over the rear drivers side. Clearance over drivers side rear wheel arch is less than offside; when driving there is a crunching / "chk-chk" noise :lol: as if something is hitting something else

 

When I go over speed bumps the rear doesnt feel anywhere near as elevated as it should do, sitting low on ground, no "bounce" :(

 

Any advice please folks?

Edited March 19, 2007 by Avenger

[faz]

When I had this happen to me on another car it was a broken coil spring.

[Galaxy_Quest]

When I had this happen to me on another car it was a broken coil spring.

 

Is this something I can repair myself and does anyone know what (specialist) tools I might need?

[whitty]

sounds like a broken spring to me too

 

 

coil spring compressors and a good jack are in order !"!

[tiny]

It could be that the bottom of the shock absorber is incorrectly mounted in the hub carrier.

 

When you mount the bottom of the shock in the hole in the top of the hub carrier, it is possible to let it push through too far before tightening the pinch bolt.

IIRC the difference can be upto about 40mm.

 

Have a look and compare the two sides, If youve just had the struts out then this is a highly probable scenario

[Guest wolfie]

if the rear spring has broken? you wont need spring clamps! jack up the car high enough, remove the wheel ...etc.... then undo the bolts holding the anti roll bar in place and remove it, then use a trolly jack to lift the trailing arm till the shocks compresses enough for you to remove the lower mounting bolt, with the shock loose, lower the trolly jack till the tension on the spring is removed and then remove it from it's mounting seats, replace the spring, jack up the trailing arm, replace the lower shock mount bolt..... etc... and repeat on other side....job done

[Galaxy_Quest]

Front strut top mount insulators were changed... its the rear drivers side that this relates to.

 

Next... I dont have a trolley jack, spring compressors. yes.... a normal jack.. yes.. .trolley jack... no.

 

So any other way to do it?

[Galaxy_Quest]

Front strut top mount insulators were changed... its the rear drivers side that this relates to.

 

Problemo... I dont have a trolley jack!

 

Spring compressors.... yes

A normal jack.. yes

Trolley jack... no.

 

So any other way to do it?

 

'Trailing Arm' I assume this means the drivers side rear axel / wheel thingy im working on and would have just taken the anti roll link bar off ? (Dont know the lingo sorry... just learning!)

 

Next... I read something on this forum about spring 'ratings' or something, is this something i have to be aware of and do i need to change both springs or just the one?

 

Lastly... is the Gal still driveable / safe to use?

[tiny]

Note to self, pay more attention!

 

Sorry i thought you were refering to the front.

[Dave-G]

Has the car had a hard life? I too would suspect the rear spring.....................

 

However this comes just too soon after work on the front suspension struts to be ignored - which could show up easier on the opposite rear corner, particularly when parked on eneven ground. It's worth a quick gander at the front to see if either of them have slipped a tad or is starting to come adrift.

[Galaxy_Quest]

Has the car had a hard life? I too would suspect the rear spring.....................

 

However this comes just too soon after work on the front suspension struts to be ignored - which could show up easier on the opposite rear corner, particularly when parked on eneven ground. It's worth a quick gander at the front to see if either of them have slipped a tad or is starting to come adrift.

 

The work on the front suspension was only the top mount struts.. nothing more exciting that that.

 

Altogether:

• front top mount strut insulators changed - both sides(by garage)
  
• offside anti roll link bar changed (by me)
  
• all brake pads changed (by me)
  
• brake fluid bled (by me)
  

Problems I now have:

• drivers side rear corner has collapsed (wheelarch still clears wheel)
  
• squeaking from steering wheel
  
• brakes are intolerably squeaky / screeching when applying brakes
  

Should I change BOTH rear springs and is it something I should do myself. Don't have a trolley jack but do have spring compressors. I have also read something about spring 'ratings'.. do i need to know more?

[Galaxy_Quest]

Have a look for yourselves:

 

http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/2570/rearyg6.th.jpg

[mumof4]

Is it me..or is there more tyre showing on the left than the right?

[Galaxy_Quest]

Is it me..or is there more tyre showing on the left than the right?

 

Thats what I'm saying :D The Drivers side rear has come down about 4 inches or so:

 

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6826/rear2fl9.th.jpg

 

Is it the spring and is there a way to fix it without using a trolley jack? Is it safe to drive? Do I need to order and replace both sides? er.... definately help and advice needed !

 

If you know anything about the other issues (squeaky brakes / mount top struts) please also let me know... :angry2:

[El Dingo]

Why not get under the car and take a look and see if the spring is broken?

[Big Tyke]

without taking a look under the car you will never be sure what is wrong!!!!

 

If it is a snapped spring then by rights you should change both at the same time. but i am sure there are many on this forum that would tell you different. Me included. I had a spring snap on my BMW but only changed one. when the new one was fitted it was level on both sides and had no detrimental effects on the driving.

 

maybe someone with more knowledge will give you other advice but your gal is leaning a bit too much for me to want to drive it.

[Galaxy_Quest]

without taking a look under the car you will never be sure what is wrong!!!!

 

If it is a snapped spring then by rights you should change both at the same time. but i am sure there are many on this forum that would tell you different. Me included. I had a spring snap on my BMW but only changed one. when the new one was fitted it was level on both sides and had no detrimental effects on the driving.

 

maybe someone with more knowledge will give you other advice but your gal is leaning a bit too much for me to want to drive it.

 

Obviously the Gal is knackered.. just look at the pics!!!

 

http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rear2fl9.jpg

 

wondering if there is a special kind of spring or will any one do?

[Guest wolfie]

ok we are running round in circles here :angry2: get your butt outside and jack up the dropped side and take a look at the spring and get back to us, if need be take a picture of the spring/trailing arm and let us see what the problem is?

as for spring rates? you can get a few different rates! no idea on the poundage?s available but VW have three types available, standard, sports or heavy duty, then you can get after market springs, lowered and uprated and yes IMO you need to replace both

Edited March 20, 2007 by wolfie

[Dave-G]

Given that you have a basic mechanical aptitude - you changed ya brake pads...

 

I'm with wolfie. We can only do so much, based on our experience of your problem. I have carried huge people in the back of my Gal without breaking the springs and I have yet to read a thread on broken ones. I wouldn't think they'd cost much at a scrappy?

 

What mileage has the troublesome beast done please?

 

Now them screeching brakes... Every part of the metal backplate of the pad that touches anything else needs a smear of copper grease.

[familyman]

the springs might be colour coded ( at least the front ones are ,to compensate for different engines )with some paint marks on them. rear ones may be all the same, as the weight of the back of the car shouldn't vary that much between models

[Guest wolfie]

the springs are indeed colour coded, in VW's case theyput a paint mark on them to differenciat between the poundage/use, ie sports 3 yellow or 1 white, heavy duty 2 yellow marks

as for the weight differences? they also on further investigation have different rate springs for versions that have built in child seats and the rear heater depending on the model year!

[Galaxy_Quest]

Argh... its all too much... i dont think she's gonna hold together captain!

 

Unfortunately, can't get under the car tonite, the light has faded but moreso the downstairs toilet is stripped; cistern and pan sitting in the middle of the lounge and there are tubs of adhesive and packs of floor tiles everywhere :D

 

Will do my best to check the Gal tomorrow.

 

If the spring has come out of its housing (somehow!?) or the coil is broken it sounds like I should buy a new PAIR and replace them. I will have to buy a cheapo mc cheapo Trolly Jack from eGay.. seen one at about

Edited March 20, 2007 by Avenger

[Guest wolfie]

:

 

(1) where the brake pad meets the piston

(2) where the brake pad meets the piston AND where the pad meets the disc (sounds dodgy no?)

 

Let me know please ! :angry2:

 

answer (1) number (2) would be certain death for you and anyone who gets in your way! :D if you are unsure leave it to a professional or see if another member near you would be willing to take a look for you?

if the spring has broken? the chance of the broken end moving and sticking through the tyre is pretty slim! unless you drive like one of the Duke brothers :D but untill your sure and taken a look drive carefully and be aware what can happen if the spring does break free! :D

as for replacement springs? euro car parts, GF&S, http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/

[Galaxy_Quest]

answer (1) number (2) would be certain death for you and anyone who gets in your way! B) if you are unsure leave it to a professional or see if another member near you would be willing to take a look for you?

if the spring has broken? the chance of the broken end moving and sticking through the tyre is pretty slim! unless you drive like one of the Duke brothers :D but untill your sure and taken a look drive carefully and be aware what can happen if the spring does break free! :angry2:

as for replacement springs? euro car parts, GF&S, http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/

 

Cheers Wolfie,

 

The (2) option was obviously tongue in cheek :D :D

 

I've use of another car in the meanwhile so its not totally dire. What I was saying is exactly where is the screech coming from, I thought it might be the disc-pad contact which may just need cleaning but now it sounds like it may be the piston-pad contact.

 

If the piston face was damaged slightly while changing the pads would this now cause a screech (NB: I wouldnt have thought so).

 

I will jack up the car tomorrow first thing and check the spring. cheers for the heads up on the spring purchases. I will go for a pair unless it is prohibitively expensive. Doesn't sound like too hard a job to do once I have the Trolley Jack (

[Dave-G]

Quote:Now them screeching brakes... Every part of the metal backplate of the pad that touches anything else needs a smear of copper grease. B)

 

When you remove the pads you will see the markings on the backplate where they have touched/slid/been pressed by something else. The areas to look closely at are coloured white, photo's courtesy of a well known auction site